Deep in the jungle, Calakmul is an off-the-beaten-path archaeological site offering a truly unique glimpse into the past.

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Visiting an archaeological site in the Yucatan peninsula is an activity I most definitely recommend. You get a glimpse into the past that you just don’t get by visiting a museum or reading in a book.

There are many archeological sites to choose from in the Yucatan peninsula. Unfortunately, many of these are flooded with a sea of tourists and vendors trying to sell you stuff (I’m looking at you Chichén Itzá).

If you are want a truly memorable experience, away from tourists and vendors, one where you feel like Indiana Jones in the Raiders of the Lost Ark, then please continue reading and find out why you should visit Calakmul.

About Calakmul

Calakmul is a Mayan archaeological zone, deep in the Biosphere Reserve that shares the same name. It is located in the state of Campeche, about 30 Km (20 miles) from the Guatemala border. Getting to it definitely takes you off the beaten path, but it is definitely worth the extra effort to get there.

This is a place in which the structures are still one with the jungle. Trees are growing within the structures, and you will basically have shade on the trails when walking between structures.

History of Calakmul

Calakmul was a major city during the Classic Period. There was an estimated 50,000 inhabitants during that time. They ruled a large area in that region (~150 Km), and their site hosted more than 6,000 ancient structures.

What is the Mayan Classic period?

The Classic Period, which began around A.D. 250, was the golden age of the Maya Empire. Classic Maya civilization grew to some 40 cities, including Tikal, Copán, Bonampak, Calakmul, and Palenque; each city held a population of between 5,000 and 50,000 people.

HISTORY.COM

Their major rival was the city of Tikal, located in Guatemala. Palenque was another major location during the time that Calakmul was at its peak. In fact, Calakmul went to war against Palenque towards the end of the Classic period.

Calakmul was discovered in 1931 by Dr. Cyrus Longworth Lundell, whose team also named the city. Today, it is kept deep in the jungle, giving it a mystic feeling to all of its visitors.

“Two great pyramids dominate the cite, and these suggested the name Calakmul. In Maya, ca means two, lak means adjacent, and mul means signifies any artificial mound or pyramid, so Calakmul is the City of the Two Adjacent Pyramids.”

Dr. Lundell

Today, it receives a lower volume of visitors when compared with other archaeological sites given its remote location.

Q: Can you climb the structures at Calakmul?

A: Yes, you can climb most structures! Match that, Chichén Itzá!

Travel with Iván

Main structures in Calakmul

Calakmul is composed of several structures. Each structure is surrounded by trees. At the entrance, you can see some art and sculptures as well.

Each structure, or groups of structures, are connected by trails that are mostly covered by trees.

The following are the main places to enjoy during your exploration of Calakmul:

• Gran Plaza: This was the gathering place in the middle of the city, from which the sacbes (Mayan roads) would spur onto to other places in the region.
• Estructura II: This is the main building. The big enchilada. It stands 50 meters (165ft) tall, and hosts a long stairway to the very top. Hint: use the stairway on the right hand side of the structure for an easier climb.
• Estructura I: This is the second highest building at the site. It is about 40 meters (130ft) tall. It is one of the buildings you will see poking out of the jungle when you’re enjoying the view from Estructura II.
• Gran Acropolis: This was the residential zone of the town, where the high class families lived.

Calakmul is one of those places where you are still allowed to climb up the structures (try doing that at Chichen-Itza!).

Interesting artifacts found around the site

The area is also packed with stelae. The stelae are elongated stones on which facts from the lives of the rulers were carved. Many of these stelae have remained in relatively good condition, and have helped to decipher Mayan customs and relevant events in their history. You can see several of these throughout the structures at the site.

Calakmul is located in the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve. A biosphere reserve is a “learning place for sustainable development”. In other words, it is a protected region of our planet that hosts an ecological system.

UNESCO

Near the entrance at Calakmul, you will get an opportunity to see some of the murals that depict some of the history of the place, and Mayan art.

Wildlife at Calakmul

Calakmul is located deep in the jungle of Campeche. And I do mean deep in the jungle. It is 60 Km from the nearest highway. Once you leave the main highway, you will drive through 60 Km of jungle for about 1.5 hours.

This means that you will begin to get closer to a more realistic look and feel of what this place was really like when the Mayas of Calakmul lived here. This also means that there are more animals in the area as well.

Remember we talked about your Indiana Jones experience?

During our visit to Calakmul we were able to see monkeys in the trees above multiple times. You will hear a branch moving, and it will be extremely likely you’ll get an opportunity to see these awesome creatures.

In addition to seeing monkeys, we also had an opportunity to see ocellated turkeys roaming around!

At the top of one of the structures at the Gran Acropolis there’s a few trees growing from it. At the top of one of the trees, we got a very close encounter with a flock of vultures.

There’s of course a number of other animals and species. We saw multiple, large blue butterflies flying around during our walk through the trails of Calakmul. There’s a number of people who have had the opportunity to see jaguars as well!

Logistics

Ok, Indiana Jones didn’t get to the Temple of Doom in 5 minutes. Lets first get this out of the way: it’s a long, challenging drive to get there.

The closest established town with hotel and restaurant options is Xpujil. It’s not a bad option, especially considering that you will have other archaeological sites in the town itself such as Xpujil, Becán, and Chicaná.

Calakmul should be an all-day event. I recommend you have this as the only part of your itinerary for the day, given it will take you 2 hours to get there, for starters.

At the sight itself, the distance you’ll walk will be approximately 6 Km (4 miles). That would cover most of the structures.

Location. This is where things get interesting. It is located 120 Km (75 miles) from Xpujil, or 305 Km (190 miles) from Campeche city. The most challenging part is that you need to head south of Highway 186 for 60 Km (35 miles) towards Guatemala through deep jungle and basically no services. Don’t worry, you wont be crossing the Guatemalan border. 😊

Transportation. We drove our rental. It is a challenging drive, since you will drive on a one-lane road for about an hour. You have to find a spot on the side of the road to let incoming traffic go by. Alternatively, you can hire a tour guide and let the guide do the driving on their van.

Food options. There is a restaurant near the main highway, after you’re done with the 60 Km drive. Other than that, make sure you pack water and snacks! We grabbed some quesadillas to go when exiting Xpujil.

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Do you agree that Calakmul is better than Chichén Itzá? Would you take the long drive to see an archaeological site like Calakmul? Please feel free to drop me a comment and let me know what you think!

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